When I optimistically gave my sat nav the order to guide me to Inverie, it flatly refused to do my bidding. The reason for that: The village is only linked to civilisation by footpaths, a ferry service and – broadband internet. How on earth the 97 locals managed to get the latter eludes me. But it definitely works. So I packed my tent and went into survival mode – apart from the clarinet, a book and the binoculars everything was super serious and important. The plan (to pass through the village and hike uo towards the pass to get a better starting point for the three remote munros in the area was unfortunately thwarted by my knee, which apparently can do with long distances and descents but not with carrying weight. But I found they had a campsite and happily went there. Already that one kilometre through the tiny settlement was incredible fun: the cars are in an amazing state, one had no window in the back, one a really flat tyre and the worst one emitted a huge cloud of black smoke and then started to creep along the 500 or so meter of sealed road they have on the peninsula with a tortured sound that I have never before heard coming from a car. Soon the whole place was deserted, so I began my hobbling towards the beach at the other end of the bay. After I had passed the ten houses without seeing another human being, I turned around the corner of a derelict shed only to find myself facing a crowd and a snack van which was very busy frying chips and preparing burgers. Needless to say: Surprised I laughed out loud and tried one. The local average of young guys with my hairstyle surprised me, but they were all very preoccupied – probably just too annoyed by the amount of foreigners that pass through that remote outpost of civilisation. The whole place is fascinating, has a long and twisted history and now is basically one of a few different approaches to landownership in Great Britain. I really regretted leaving the place after three days, because there would be so many interesting things still to be discovered and found out. I will have to come back! Oh, and yes, I also did two Munros, Luinne Beinn and Meall Buidhe, Nr. 75 and 76, if I remember correctly, got caught out in thunder and lightning, tried unsuccessfully to remember, what I was supposed to do in that case, and had an altogether brilliant and very long day in the hills, followed by another very relaxed one at the great campsite while having chats with absolutely amazing people.
Knoydart – all for all
03 Freitag Juli 2015
Posted Schottland
in